How much should you charge for your painted coin flips?
Depends. One measure is the value of your painting. The other main factor is the actual cost of the coin you’ve inserted in the flip — not what you originally paid, but today’s market for that coin in that grade.
Categorically, “pretty okay” coins are going to measure up more or less like this:
When it comes to deriving the maximum enjoyment and benefit out of the upcoming workshop, you’ll be able to wring out a lot more of the good stuff if you have a couple of things around the house before the workshop actually happens.
One of the things that will definite enhance your experience is a Godd Particle.
I’m planning on demonstrating Bardo Communication and Guidance, and if you have one of those handy, you can install it on your computer or work it directly from the USB. Continue reading
Back in the previous century, I was a sculptor working in bronze, acrylics, wood, glass and plaster, to create pieces that delved deeply into the mystique formulated by my sculpture teacher Renzo Fenci, at Otis Art Institute, where I studied sculpture and 3D art, as “a grouping of interpenetrating masses”, and that’s how I sculpt.
I take masses and cram them together, pass them through one another and in other ways distort and adapt, to create a finished product that is in fact a self-contained universe, similar to the one in which we now seem to live. Continue reading
Whew — spent the entire night from 5:50 PM last night all the way to breakfast time, on Ken’s project. I’ll explain:
Suppose you’ve got some “junk silver” coins, mostly of the walking Liberty Half variety, and some Morgan dollars and a few Peace dollars, but they’re worn down a LOT, so much so that you can buy and sell them at “melt” price, which is what the daily price is at the refineries.
Mind you, even the BU Bright Uncirculated coins of these types are butcherously low-priced on eBay. Continue reading
Yes, we’ll get to the Relics and Artifacts in a minute. I just wanted you to take a peek at the video above, to get yourself prepared for what’s going to happen in the realm of antiques and such.
We used to call them “junk stores” — overcrowded, dry and dusty with undisturbed age, the objects lanquished in the darkness, waiting for a new owner and new life.
Sometime around 1950, those same junk shops switched signs, and became “antique shoppes”, with fewer items, better arrangement, and much higher prices.
There were, in the 1960s and 1970s, a smattering of shops that sold things older than antiques — those items that are 2,000 years old or older are now called “antiquities”, to distinguish them from “antiques”, things that are 100 years old or more.
Stuff that’s around 1,000 years old are downright Medieval, and are collected as such. Medieval things are generally at about neolithic or at most, bronze-age in nature. Continue reading
Yeah, I’ve got a whole new product in my hands tonight — A guaranteed authentic 100-year-old VERY VINTAGE U.S. 1920 Lincoln Penny sealed into a protective acrylic capsule which is then mounted on a tiny papier-mache box to make a small and intricately designed “Trinkets & Treasures Box” or what is commonly called a “Memory Box”.
You’d keep small personal items that belonged to a person, place or time in there, which creates a powerful bond with the space-time config that is the source of the memorabilia. Continue reading
There really isn’t any other way to survive the Age of Trump — you’ll need money, lots of it, unless you want to be rounded up like all the middle and lower class people will be rounded up and put to work on the infrastructure, which means “road repair”, breaking rocks like a hard-time prisoner.
The only pleasure Trump gets out of life is to torment people with his very presence. You don’t have to take that or any of his bullshit crap, not now, not ever. But if you want that choice, want the power to remain outside his grasp, you’ll need money, lots of it.
Have a home? Have a job? Have a family? These little “Alternate Facts” of your personal freedom and First Amendment Rights will be totally ignored in the Big Roundup, and that ends forever your chances of escaping the misery of living in an Amerikan dictatorship under the Rule of Trump.
Not only that, but there’s a whole dynasty waiting to take power once he leaves the stage, and he’s still got six, almost seven, years more of unrelenting power, with a string of outrages that gets more and more absurd until the day he announces the dissolution of Congress.
Right after that, it gets very sticky — you don’t have to believe me, you’ve been here before your own self — examine your Past Life Surveys to get the details. Same old cards, read ’em and weep.
Only one answer — Get Rich Quick.
There’s only one way to do that, really — start with a large amount of cash, invest it wisely in a business of your own, and develop it over a period of years.
Too bad — there’s no time for that, now.
The ONLY solution for Trump’s Aggressions against your personal freedoms is to get rich super-quick, and there are damn few options that YOU, sitting in Middle-Class Poverty, can take to make that happen.
You’re not starting out with ANY amount of capital, let alone with a decent bankroll. Continue reading
Here’s a rundown of what specific actions I take with a new bag or box or roll of wheaties to be searched. It’s basic, and of course doesn’t contain “The Moves”, which are derived from Magic in the Mirror — MiM — in order to handle the coins efficiently and effectively. I’ll assume that the coins are already separated out into decades. If not, they’ll have to be separated out before beginning a search, because you can only compare coins with other coins of the same decade, when grading, or you’ll get entirely baffled by the sudden changes in quality, so the general rule is ALWAYS SEARCH BY DECADE.
So, you’ve got a bag of TEENS, TWENTIES, THIRTIES, FORTIES or FIFTIES coins. Let’s begin a search on them. Put the bag nearby on the floor or on a very strong table.
Now all that remains is to store the tubes in boxes until they are needed. I’ll now do a step-by-step rundown on how to handle the coins from search to sale: Continue reading
Okay, you have a bag of “wheaties”, which means a bag of Lincoln Wheat-Ear Back One Cent pieces from one of three U.S. mints — Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco.
Of the three, you could always count on the mint in San Francisco to develop lots of mint errors, notably involving the mint-mark.
In the Philadelphia coins, there are no mint-marks, but on the other hand, there are lots of opportunities to strike it rich with DDOs, which is to say, “Doubled-Die Obverse” errors, which means that the die got struck twice during the creation of the die from the HUB — it’s all very complicated, but you can find out about the process by reading the Mega Red coin book, which I think you’ll find surprisingly good reading, if you’re at all interested in the history of the coins and the mints that made them AND the horses they rode in on!
You’re dealing here with circulation coins, not special coins issued by the mint to make money for the politicians, such as the “proof sets” and “eagles” and special issue “collectible” gold coins, and other equally miserable excuses for collectibles.
If you mark something as “collectible” and everybody collects them and keeps them totally intact and pristine and mint-condition, guess what? They’re not collectible at all, because scarcity is a powerful driver in the collectibles market, and that’s just not there when everybody has one. Continue reading
Okay, here’s my entry into the coinology marketing field:
It’s a packet, pouch, box or clear bag with a bunch of ordinary wheaties pennies — a carefully calculated mix of teens, twenties and thirties Lincoln Wheat cents.
Please note that I have avoided the nicer-looking but generally worthless later Lincoln cents, the forties and fifties. You can buy them by the shovelful in mint condition for very little, so why muck about looking for and through them for the coins you really want?
My thought is that the price would be slightly different for a bag of 1910’s, 1920’s and 1930’s pennies, but like a crackerjack box, each bag is GUARANTEED to contain at least one, and sometimes two or three, PREMIUM COINS. Continue reading