It’s Just a Penny

The coin above was made at the very beginning of the United States of America, and is one of the rarest of its type. The price is designed to give room to the next owner to resell it at a profit.

Problem is, you haven’t a clue what the hell I’m talking about, and that will remain your condition until you achieve COINLIGHTENMENT, which may be never, unless you can MAKE yourself become interested in the subject, but why on Earth would you do that?

You’re already busy, and have no time for frivolous pursuits like coin collecting — but it isn’t coin-collecting — it’s achieving a state of knowledge that can have incredible rewards, some of which are in personal wealth, but many are along the line of personal enlightenment and spiritual attainment, all from the study and trade of coins.

What’s the gimmick???

I hear you asking, “What are the stages of Coinlightenment?”, but shouldn’t you first be asking, “What the hell is Coinlightenment, anyway???”, or “How the hell do I use Coinlightenment?”, or “Why the hell should I bother to mess with Coinlightenment???”.

I’ll answer your third question first, ignoring the multiple references to hell.

‘Coz THERE’S MONEY IN THEM-THAR HILLS, that’s why.

COIN KNOWLEDGE-Y means more cash in the pocket, more fun, and a way to get across a border if you find yourself becoming an American Refugee.

Forced Evacuation.

I can predict from here that that’s exactly how you’ll end up leaving your home, running unexpectedly and in total riot and confusion, just moments ahead of deadly disaster, but you’ve given yourself a chance to actually survive it with your friends and family, but only if you act now, right away, today.

You need to have everything ready to grab at a moment’s notice, without a single ounce of extra weight, and with everything you need to sustain you until you land safely somewhere.

You also need a PLAN. Where will you end up? How will you get there? What will you do to earn a living when you can’t get a work permit?

Get in touch with me. Tell me you need help getting ready for the coming world-disaster. There are food things you should know, water things, money things, trade things and much, much more.

You should have been reading Howard Ruff all along. If you have been, you’ll know what you have to do, and you’ve probably already got all that in place.

If not, you’re now in deep shit without a shovel, and if you think you’re going to be able to trade rolls of Charmin for food, you got another think coming.

If you’ve got a gun and some trade items, but no way to cover yourself during the trade and no way to get away without exposing your back, you MIGHT be able to conduct a trade, but it’s more likely you’ll end up dead on the road.

It’s not enough to just have something to trade. You have to know how to safely make a trade in a world gone mad.

I’ve seen this before, countless times before, and each passage through the human field of ignorance, violence and superstition, it’s no better.

You need to really prepare, and that means knowing exactly what to do WHEN — not if — the Unthinkable happens, and it will.

The best part is, if it DOESN’T happen, you’re in a good position to cash in on the peace initiatives that result from open conflict.

How do I get started?

Okay, you’re in a coin-search, and you’ve found something, discovered something, uncovered a treasure in a coin-search, and you suddenly realize that you actually KNOW something about this coin — what the coin is worth, what condition it’s in, and where to sell it — but be advised that this knowledge doesn’t come automatically at birth.

It can’t just happen by itself, and it’s not acquired via transsubstantiation or osmosis.

It takes discipline, time and tons of attention, which you may not have at this moment, so I’m taking the opportunity to offer the coinology prizes from coin searches I’ve made in the past, in addition to works of art, jewelry, precious stones and more.

I have a $120,000.00 Renoir. I didn’t pay that for it — I researched it and discovered that it is the only one of its kind, and it’s totally authenticated.

Do you know anyone who needs a way to cross a border with a piece of art? You don’t carry it across in a hand-carved gilded frame.

You stick it into a book, like Jewish refugees did with their Rembrandt etchings — into the Bible it goes.

Of course, if the border guards are Trumpian, they’ll stick their bayonets through the Bible just out of spite, but then, they might do the same with you.

Don’t count on passing borders AFTER the Trump Guard takes over. Do the work NOW, while you still can, while it’s still legal.

In a very short time, jokes about Trump will be punishable by death, and you can expect Execution Squads to appear on the streets, if things go any worse than they are already.

Get Your Bug-Out Pack Ready NOW!!!

In short, I’ll help you decide on which coin or coins to put in your bugout pack. What really matters is that the coin be instantly translatable into local currency no matter where you land.

Often, immigrants can’t decide where they will live, and American Refugees will NOT be treated nicely or fairly, pretty much what white America in the person of the Trump Administration delivered to immigrants from other countries, notably Mexico, Arab nations and Africa, while accepting Norwegians without question.

What Do I Need To Know???

Let’s take a look at your “Pilgrim’s Progress” toward Coinlightenment:

• IT’S JUST A PENNY — This is the first dawning of an awakening consciousness. There is a realization that a penny is present, and that it is a penny, although at this stage, it’s JUST a penny, meaning that it is insignificant and generally unworthy of special notice.
• IT’S A LINCOLN PENNY — In the Second Stage of Coinlightenment, one becomes dimly aware that there is an entire run or set or collection or something, related to pennies that look similar to this one.
• IT’S A LINCOLN CENT — Now in the Third Stage, the consciousness is becoming aware of the fact that this is a particular issue of a particular type of currency.
• IT’S A CIRCULATED LINCOLN CENT — In the Fourth Stage of Coinlightenment, the awareness of many different possible states and applications of a U.S. coin becomes somewhat present, along with a general concept of how U.S. copper coins are manufactured.
• IT’S A CIRCULATED LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — In this Fifth Stage of Coinlightenment, one becomes aware of the special set of Lincoln cents that were made from 1909 until 1958, when the reverse design was changed from the double wheats to the memorial building. It is presently a shield, but this is soon to change once again.
• IT’S A TEEN DECADE LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — Now the dawning of true Coinsciousness is breaking upon your shining intellect — you are acutely aware that Lincoln cents can be sorted into decades, and that each decade has its own unique characteristics and expectations, such as distribution patterns, with the first year, fifth year, sixth year, seventh year, eighth year and ninth year being dominant in numbers, with the second, third and sometimes fourth year being on the scarce or downright rare side.
• IT’S A 1912 LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — At last, you’ve taken the time and spent the energy to look more closely at the coin, now taking note of the date, but is there more?
• IT’S A 1912-S LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — Aha! Now you see that it is not merely a common Lincoln cent, but a mint-marked coin, notably from the San Francisco Mint, noted for their continual screwups, resulting in many wondrous error coins, so many of them that you might wonder how they got past the guards at the gates, and most of them didn’t.
• IT’S A HIGH-GRADE 1912-S LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — Okay, you can SEE that there’s grade here, but how much grade, exactly?
• IT’S AN MS-65 RD 1912-S LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT — Congratulations, you’re almost home! Keep struggling! Peer more keenly! Penetrate the Mystery!
• IT’S AN MS-66 RD 1912-S LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT WORTH ABOUT $13,000! — Now you’re just one step from the Ultimate Realization:
• WOW! IT’S AN MS-66 RD 1912-S LINCOLN WHEAT-BACK CENT, POP 1, I’M KEEPING THIS!!! — You have finally gone completely over the top. You’re fully initiated and ready to handle the Bardos like a pro, and you are now doomed to be a hopeless Lincoln Set collector with no hope of recovery!

That’s right. From here, there is no return.

Here’s a rundown of what specific actions I take with a new bag or box or roll of wheaties to be searched. It’s basic, and of course doesn’t contain “The Moves”, which are derived from my training manual, “Magic in the Mirror”, in order to handle the coins efficiently and effectively.

I’ll assume that the coins are already separated out into decades — for instance, 1920-1929, or 1930-1939.

If not, they’ll have to be separated out before beginning a search, because you can only compare coins with other coins of the same decade, when grading, or you’ll get entirely baffled by the sudden changes in quality, so the general rule is ALWAYS SEARCH BY DECADE, which requires a “glance inspection” for the date and no other particulars — however, if you spot something of real value take it out and bag it, meaning put it into a flip immediately, and label it before you forget what it was you saw.

Okay, so you’ve got a bag of TEENS, TWENTIES, THIRTIES, FORTIES or FIFTIES coins, everything from 1910 through 1958. The 1909 coins are separated immediately, if any are found, for closer examination later.

Let’s begin a search on the coins, keeping in mind that it’s totally dangerous during the Pandemic to be searching coins that have recently been in circulation.

Put the bag of coins nearby on the floor or on a very strong table. Hopefully, it will all be Lincoln Wheats, no memorials, but you can isolate currently circulating coins and examine them in a month or two, giving them time to lose their “hot” status.

Frankly, I wouldn’t bother with anything more recent than a bag of wheaties, but even there, you have to be careful –isolate the bag and leave it alone for at least a month, and that’s AFTER the covid crisis is over. It just makes  good common sense and is the practical thing to do.

Open the Bag.

• FIRST ACTION — Open the bag.
• SECOND ACTION — Reach into the bag and scoop out a handful of coins.
• THIRD ACTION — Place the handful of coins on your right on the velvet search pad.
• FOURTH ACTION — Put on your Opti-Visors. I use #7, fairly strong ones, these days.
• FIFTH ACTION — Arrange the pile of coins on your right into piles of about 10 coins each.
• SIXTH ACTION — Take the first pile of ten coins and FAN or SPREAD them out in front of you where the light hits them perfectly, so you can see every detail.
• SEVENTH ACTION — FLIP or TURN OVER the coins so they all face downward, wheats up.
• EIGHTH ACTION — FLIP your Opti-Visor down so you can see the coin’s surface through them clearly and easily, and CHECK THE COINS for any sign of “quality”, meaning that there are some lines still in the wheat ears. You want to take out anything that isn’t TOTALLY FLAT — absolutely every sign of value or quality.
• NINTH ACTION — Place any GRADABLE coin FACE DOWN, WHEATS UP, on the velvlet pad, to your LEFT, in a separate pile.
• TENTH ACTION — FLIP the remaining coins in the spread FACE UP, to reveal the date and mint mark, if there is a mint-mark. Remember that coins produced at the Philadelphia Mint never carry a “p” mint mark, although in other denominations there are exceptions to this rule, notably the wartime nickel.
• ELEVENTH ACTION — PLACE the coins in the correct piles, starting with the lowest date on the left. All mint-mark coins should be stacked FACE UP in the far center, slightly to the right, building stacks of about 15 coins.
• TWELFTH ACTION — Scoop up the stacks of coins into tubes and label each tube as you fill and cap it.

Now all that remains is to store the tubes in boxes until they are needed. I’ll now do a step-by-step rundown on how to handle the coins from search to sale:

• ARRANGE the G-4 COINS, the ones that don’t have any sign of quality or grade on them. They should be stored in easily opened and closed SQUARE TUBES — the kind I sell in our student store — and placed carefully in a divided coin-storage box, always stored by date and mint-mark in this order, left to right: “P”,”D”,”S”, meaning “Philadelphia Mint” which is no mint-mark whatever, then the coins mint-marked with a “D”, which stands for the Denver Mint, and then coins mint-marked with an “S” below the date, which means they were made at the San Francisco Mint.
• REMOVE the TUBES one at a time and pour out a small number of coins in a small pile, about 20 coins maximum, in a semi-circle around the pad, leaving room to work in the center of the pad.
• PICK UP one coin from each pile and place it in the center, building a neat stack for each pile of anywhere from six to ten coins, depending on the decade.
• PACKAGE the small stack into a 2×2 square clear bag, and place that into your card sleeve in front of your vertically printed business card or backing card.
• LABEL your packages immediately. Don’t trust to memory to remember what they are and what they’re supposed to say.
• PLACE OR STORE your labeled product, which should be a starter pack for the TEENS, TWENTIES, THIRTIES, FORTIES and FIFTIES.

Here’s a quick rundown on which dates to include in which packets:

• TEEN STARTER PACK — 1910, 1911, 1912, 1913, 1914, 1915, 1916, 1917, 1918 & 1919.
• TWENTIES STARTER PACK — 1920, 1921, (NO 1922), 1923, 1924, 1925, 1926, 1927, 1928 & 1929. The 1922 is always expensive and must be acquired separately and individually.
• THIRTIES STARTER PACK — 1930, 1934, 1935, 1936, 1937, 1938 & 1939. The  1931, 1932 and 1933 are “premium” coins, tend to be more expensive, and will have to be acquired separately.
• FORTIES STARTER PACK — 1940, 1941, 1942, 1943, 1944, 1945, 1946, 1947, 1948 & 1949.
• FIFTIES STARTER PACK — 1950, 1951, 1952, 1953, 1954, 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958 & 1959.

I suppose you’re wondering what to do with that face-down stack of “quality” coins, the ones that have ANY SIGN OF LIFE on them, meaning even one or two little lines on only one wheat-ear, and I’ll bet you dollars to donuts you’ll soon work out where the wheats wear down first, and where they end up last.

Don’t forget the SOURCE of these coins — these were all popped out of a page of some cheap coin album or cardboard “folder”, after they had captured the coins they actually wanted, which would be the 1909, 1922-d and “no D”, the 1914-d and of course all the “s” mint-marks they can score, plus the 1931, 32 and 33, and a couple of other coins you probably won’t miss until you go looking for them.

Don’t bother to light a candle for the 1909s VDB — you can’t count on those kinds of miracles to sustain your business over the years, and a coin shop depends on repeat customers, not newbies.

So your job now is to SEPARATE that hopefully huge stack of GRADABLE coins into their separate and appropriate grades. Always give yourself a “spread” by bracketing the value as you would estimate the winning bid RANGE of an auction piece, thusly:

• AU-MS — Almost Uncirculated is pretty damned impressive, looks almost mint, and Mint State would be absolutely stunning and fresh, just as it came off the press. These are so rare that you will probably never use the bracketed grade “AU-MS”, but there it is, if you need it.
• EF-AU — That’s Extra-Fine to Almost Uncirculated, gives you a LOT of room to make mistakes, but the coin should look pretty terrific in this grade range.
• VF-EF — Ah, that’s more like what you’re likely to find in these “folder-dump” bags. Most of the remains of collections you’re seeing these days were assembled by folks back in the 1940s and 1950s, maybe into the sixties a few years, but bagged and sealed sometime before 1970, about half a century ago. This means that most of the coins will not be high-grade, because nobody put high-grade coins in a folder. Most of the coins will be brown, because that’s what everybody thought an old coin should look like, and nobody cared about grade or condition at that time, so you more or less randomly put the coin in that fit the date and mint-mark, totally disregarding the “look” of the coin.
• VG-VF — Wow, what a wide range THIS can be! If there’s a mere scritchy-scratch on the wheat, anywhere on the wheat, you can, if you dare, call it “VG”, Very Good, which means “slightly better than no damn grade at all”, and you’re covered all the way to “VF”, Very Fine, which means that there’s some lines on at least one of the ears of wheat.
• G-VG — Might as well give it up and throw these into the junk coin pile to be included in your STARTER PACKS, the ones you made up from the no-grade G-4 coins. Well, VG is not a whole lot better in most coins, but be careful — there are some hard-to-find dates and mint-marks that make it imperative that you find at least a LITTLE grade in the coin, because in certain dates, that can make a powerful monetary difference.

Now it’s time to PRICE your coins.

Always price your coins on the high side of the estimated range of grade, but then ALWAYS GIVE A DISCOUNT, right down to the lower end of that range of values.

You’ll get a better reaction by lowering the price than by having it low in the first place and having nowhere to go on the down side from that low price-tag. Don’t saddle yourself with a low price, don’t paint yourself in a corner and don’t leave yourself without options. Make a price in the middle, and be prepared to bargain all the way to that middle price.

If you don’t know how to haggle — meaning “to arrive at a mutually acceptable price somewhere in the middle between “bid” and “ask” — you can watch episodes of “Pawn Stars” or “American Pickers” or any of the picker or trader shows where there are two clear parties with two very disparate price points in mind.

You’re not going to have FUN with coins until you realize that coinology is a game, albeit a learning game, and a game of luck and karma.

Building a collection is only one of the many games you can learn to play with coins. You might find it interesting to focus down on one or two special issues and pursue those to the highest grades, because high-grade is another game, but requires a great deal more effort and sophistication of knowledge.

Specializing in ERROR COINS can be really fun, and in my opinion has the most opportunity for WORK efforts. It’s a very exotic and advanced area, but is well worth investigating, if you find ordinary coin collecting beneath your skill levels, and if it isn’t now, it should soon be, meaning that you’d be well-advised to get on your way toward the Ashram, and it might just be time to start to master the higher end stuff, starting with coinology.

I want to mention here that coinology is a kind of meditation. It uses, but does not rely upon, coins and numismatics for its applications. Time-binding is a direct result of coin-handling where the coins have a time-distance greater than ten years from the subject.

Ancient coins handle differently, and tokens and other quasi-semi-pseudo numismatics have a chance of being used psychometrically as well as in a time-bind connection between the present and the apparent past.

Coinology is the perfect tool for perfection.

HERE IS A LIST OF BENEFITS:

• ATTENTION levels are all automatically raised.
• PRESENCE is automatically invoked as a result of time-binding.
• WILL is invoked automatically because there is no urgent personal reason to continue the coin search.
• WAKING STATE MOMENTS are automatically invoked by the time-binding effect.
• PAST LIFE CONNECTIONS are made automatically, including noticing and perhaps keeping in a special collection, those coins you have held in your hands and spent or saved, in previous lifetimes.
• VISIONS of events in the past, present and future will come to you as you work.
• THOUGHT EXPERIMENTS can be enhanced greatly by coinology searches.
• CLARITY is automatically enhanced by Coinology coin search techniques.
• CERTAINTY is automatically brought about by coin search definitive moves.
• WORRY is profoundly reduced by the simple action of handling a lot of money, whether it’s valuable or not, whether it belongs to you or not. Just handling coins causes relaxation and freedom from personal and social financial issues.
• FRIENDS come naturally as you get out there with your coins and start meeting THE NICEST PEOPLE YOU EVER MET, because that’s a fact — most coin collectors are sensitive and considerate, just plain nice, and that makes it all worthwhile. You’ll have a LOT of great and interesting conversations with new friends.
• MONEY will start rolling in when you start HANDLING money, and coins are a great place to start.
• FUN will be the first and best result of Coinology coin searches.
• SOCIAL events and connections will be immediately enhanced.
• SAFETY will be immediately enhanced just by bringing your personal wealth level up just a bit, enough to get above the recent perturbations in the economic atmosphere. Just learning to handle and trade coins can help you in the new world situation we’re facing as we go deeper into the 21st century of the most recent Western civilizations.

According to the Jewish calendar, the current modern year of 2018 is 5778, leaving a lot of room for discussion. The  Hindus think it’s only 3102, and the Moslems say it’s Year 1439. Everyone has a different idea of how long people have been around and how long the Earth has been here, but nobody seems to get the real deal — that the world can’t be more than one day at a time.

Here are a bunch of personal notes expanded from a short stack of Post-It notes by my coin-searching pad. I hope you can use this information to gain a better understanding of the technique and liberating technology of Soul-Searching and Sweep-Searching under the 3 Aspects of Coinology which together form the triple-faced Goddess of Coinology, Solaria.

If, on the other hand, you have a favorite god-form, don’t hesitate to assume it for your searches. So, with a lot more further ado than you might like to see, here are the aforesaid previously mentioned “personal notes”, which are, as I’ve already indicated, expanded from much shorter notes written on sticky note paper and plastered by the side of my coin search table and adequate Soft-White lighting.

The biggest hurdle in coin-searching is knowing exactly what you’re looking for, and that really is hindered by studying photos. They simply don’t convey the “feel” of the coin, and once you’ve had an example of that particular error coin in your hand, you’ll not likely forget it, and you can and will SEE the error, thus giving yourself the confidence needed that you WILL RECOGNIZE that coin when it comes up in a search. No doubt about it.

• BEST ODDS — These come in flips at $5 per coin. They are BoBs, which is an anagrammatic way of saying “Best of the Best”, and are in-circulation Lincoln Memorial and Shield pennies that I feel will bring top dollar in the marketplace — the actual retail prices will vary somewhat depending on what coin comes up. I select them at random, unless you direct me to create a set of error coins for your display. You get the coin in a flip. I describe the coin on the front side of the flip, and put a retail price-tag on the lower right hand corner of the flip, representing what I think the coin will bring, subject to your trading skills and deal-making. Feel free to change that price tag, but do take into consideration that it relies on established market prices on eBay and in coin shows for its retail estimates. Make no mistake, there is no better grade of coin at my desk than my BEST ODDS coin assortments. You can order any number of BEST ODDS coins, but please keep in mind that I do NOT keep track of what I’ve already sent you, so if you want to build a set, tell me NOW, and I’ll put one together for you — you have only to specify the number of examples you want in the pack, and I’ll endeavor to make them all different varieties of error. All in all, you’ll probably want the half-dozen or maybe the top ten most common errors.
• HIGH-GRADE ODDBALLS — These Lincoln Memorial and Shield Pennies come in a 50-coin tube which is wholesale priced at $50 per roll — that’s a dollar a coin — and are selected at random from my personal stacks of High-Grades. They are in fact the Crux of your Coin Searches, and form the basis for your retail shop. They serve as an inspiration to your customers — perhaps with a little training and a lot of luck, they can score as big as you’ve done, as evidenced by the displays of “found” coins at your Coinology Kiosk. You can find your own High-Grade Oddballs & Errors, or you can buy them from me at wholesale prices. They generally sell around $3-$5 up to $45 for the top grade unusual errors.
• SECONDARY ODDBALLS — These lower grade oddball & error Lincoln Memorial and Shield Pennies are priced at a mere $5 a roll for 50 coins, which is only a dime apiece. My best guess is that they’re worth anywhere from $3 to maybe $5, but some rare errors are worth a lot more, even in a lower grade. These are coins I put aside thinking I’d be selling them, so rest assured, they are all quite saleable, some more than others — it’s all about luck of the draw.
• RANDOM COIN PACK — This is a pack of 50 pennies that could be anything at all, totally random, no idea what’s in there, all for the low, low price of only $1 a roll, plus shipping, or you can get the same thing from your own local bank for half a buck. This particular paragraph is a gag, placed here just to see if you’re actually paying attention. If you are, please laugh to indicate that you got the joke. Thank you.
• AMULETIC COIN JEWELRY — I can send you a variety of coin jewelry, all of which is amuletic, some more so than others. The prices range anywhere from $20 a pair for sterling silver bezel earrings all the way up to 14k gold lockets, if anyone’s interested.
• DATE COINS — These come in packs of 50, at $2 a roll, any date you like. Date coin rolls are never searched, so there’s a chance you might hit a good error coin — I’ve found my share of 1995 DDOs and such. Since contemporary coins come to you totally unsearched, there’s a good chance you’ll find something in every shipment.

OFF-ZAFU MEDITATION is Coinology. What you’re doing anytime you perform one of my exercises or skill-drills, including guitar practice and coin search and more.

• CHILLING EFFECT — Practicing the Coinology Soul-Search has a “chilling effect” on you, making things go better, less tension, less apprehension, less misery.
• SIMPLE SEARCH — You can start out by performing the Simple Search, which is bright & shiny versus dull & dark, making two distinct piles of coins in two distinct grade regions. This simple search is a very effective beta block against overactive mental chatter.
• DUMPSTER-DIVING IN THE HIGHER DIMENSIONS — That’s what it is, Dumpster-Diving. Don’t ever look closely at the coins that come to you from General Circulation — they’ve been through a lot, and you probably wouldn’t want to know exactly what happened to them on their way to your workbench.
• 100% RECOVERY — When you’re gold-mining, you think in terms of percentage of recovery of the gold, meaning how much gold you got out, versus how much was in there in the first place. In Coinology Searches, you get the same effect when you apply the right procedures.
• COINS ARE DROPS — If you’ve participated in the Bardo Safaris, you’ll know instinctively exactly which drops you should react to, and which ones can be ignored.
• HOW TO LOAD A COIN INTO A FLIP — Open the flip so the glue part is up. Holding the coin with dry fingers, on the rim edge only, place the coin face-down onto the plastic window in the flip. Rotate the coin so it’s readable — “ONE CENT” should be visible and rightside-up. Close the flip and flip it over vertically, then write out your information as shown by my examples sent to you in your kit — um, if you didn’t order samples in flips, you can’t examine them very well, can you?
• HOW TO OPEN A ROLL OF PENNIES — It varies. Some you can open on one end, some you can break, some you have to make a harmless slice to get it to break. Once open, the coins can be shaken out by tilting the roll at a 45 degree angle, and tapping the roll against the edge of your workbench top. They should sort of slide out. Form them into five about-equal stacks.
• HOW TO STACK COINS — Watch a Vegas dealer handle chips and you’ll get the idea. You can easily move the rolls around on the velvet pad by moving the bottom coin first.
• HOW TO PUT COINS IN A ROLL — You don’t have to count them one by one if you have a tube handy — first count out exactly 50 pennies and place them in the plastic square roll tube, noting where they come to, exactly. Now empty the tube and fill it with raw, loose coins up to the same point. You now have a fast way to count out fifty coins, great for filling coin bags.
• HOW TO LAY OUT COINS — Put a stack in front of you on your velvet pad, then gently push them to the side and guide them as they fall, in an expanded line pattern, so that each coin has its own space, no coin on top of another, then turn them one by one face-up and rotate them so you can read the date and see the portrait.
• DON’T LUST FOR RESULTS — Relax, you’re not going anywhere. The whole point is to relax, slow down, insulate yourself from the world around you and dive into the high-attention needed to perform the coin-search tasks.
• BE HAPPY WITH SMALL WINS — You don’t have to hit the Big Prize every time, and in fact, if you DO happen to hit a bigtime coin, be real — you’ll probably want to keep it as a souvenir or as part of your display, or both, and rest assured that sooner or later, if you keep up the practice, you WILL hit it big, maybe many times.
• EACH COIN HAS ITS OWN UNIQUE PERSONALITY — I know you’ll think I mean this in some esoteric sort of ethereal way, but I don’t. I mean it exactly as I stated it. Every coin has consciousness and in fact, everything that exists in any universe has some form of consciousness, mostly higher than you’d think. Look at the coin until it regards you back, then “read” it for psychometrics and examine it for errors.
•  SHUT OUT THE WORLD — In order to carry out a clean sweep search, you’ll have to shut out the world, meaning ignore everything around you for the duration of the search, unless it’s an emergency or there’s a tempting snack being served.
•  HOW TO CLEAN A VELVET PAD — You can take the crud off a velvet pad with a variety of crud-removers, including a gimmick made for jewelers, which you can find at any jewelry or retail store supply shop.
• SHOCK OF RECOGNITION — This is the well-known effect of looking at something and actually SEEING it. The Shock of Recognition will help you find great coins in a heap of junk, the jewel in the lotus, Coinologically speaking.
• KNOW WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR — That’s tantamount to “Know Thyself”, and is pretty much the basis for your search. You can send for samples of what to look for, as described at the beginning of this article.
• DON’T BE TOO EAGER TO COLLECT A COIN — After a stunningly short time, you’ll be up to your eyeballs in “great” coins, and at some point, you may seriously consider building a storage unit right next to your Coinology studio. Only take in those coins that are worthy, and DON’T LOWER THE BAR just because you’re not finding any.
• NOT-LOOKING GIVES YOU THE EDGE — Knowing exactly which coins are not worth looking at will save you time and energy, and make your coin searches much more efficient and effective.
• ONLY BAG UP WHAT SELLS — Knowing exactly what will realistically sell on the street will help you prevent wasting money on flips for coins that shouldn’t be flipped. This comes with time-in-grade and no amount of book-learning or classroom presentation can be a substitute for personal experience personally experienced.
• GOVERNMENT LOTTERY — Error coins are sort of an unwitting and unwilling Government Lottery, in which you can cash in your losing tickets and try again as many times as you like.
• ROLL YOUR OWN AND SAVE — If you want to save the $3 you’d pay at the supermarket coin machine, you can roll the coins up into paper wrappers and bring them, one roll at a time, to your bank, if they’ll accept them from you.
• 100% SATISFACTION OR YOUR MONEY BACK — If you don’t like the coins the bank gave you, simply turn them around and buy another box, adding whatever the difference is between the original box, at 2500 pennies, and the box you’re cashing in, less the coins you kept for sale or display.

“It’s Just a Penny”

You can wear a ton of magical gear formed from a penny or more than one penny or a group of coins. They can be incorporated into many forms, from hat to glove, jewelry and fashion.

The fact is, pennies are ignored and considered almost worthless. The phrase, “Not worth a penny”, implies that a penny isn’t worth much to begin with.

With knowledge, you can transcend that ignorant state.

Some pennies are worth millions. I’m willing to show you how to transform your pennies into dollars, and that makes a lot of cents!

The main reason you would want to know about intensely valuable coins is to help the very rich get ready to evacuate to another country, without looking as if they’re carrying millions of dollars’ worth of stuff.

Of course, there has to be an instant cash market for what it is you’re carrying. That means totally liquid, which means you need an expert at the other end verifying the value of the coin, stone, or other item you’re hauling around.

For the purpose of carrying enormous wealth around and especially across borders, I heartily recommend the simple U.S. penny as the least obvious, although some postage stamps placed on envelopes could maybe pass.

I also favor diamonds and gold, but heavily and cleverly disguised. Don’t forget that the bastards that gassed the protesters are the same people who take from you whatever you have when you try to leave the country.

You need to carry something that doesn’t arouse interest, but that’s precious little, especially going up against Trump’s Storm Troopers, the ones you saw in action in Washington, D.C. and Portland — those are not ordinary cops. They are paid mercenaries, and Trump has not-all-that-quietly been building his own private army, which will go into action if he loses the election.

How do I know this?

I was once their Remote Viewer Trainer when I was a member of “The Arlington Witches”, the very first Remote Viewer unit formed after the KGB penetrated the Pentagon with four Soviet Paranormal Spies, from their Paranormal “Spion” unit in Suburban Petrograd, back in 1962-64.

I predicted QANON over 45 years ago, in my book, “SlimeWars”, and here they are, ready to take down all of civilization, and they have the means to do it.

The Russians are very good at Psychic Spying.

I am also very good at it. I did it for the U.S. Government for over a decade, and I’d do it again — we were able to make a difference, by trying to convince our agency that you really can’t kill with psychic force.

I truly wish they’d have believed us, but they didn’t, hence they had a bunch of idiots out in a field trying to kill a goat with mental magic.

Sure, it’s not that hard. I can still drop a goat from fifty paces, but it’s even more dangerous as a tool of intelligence. I can open any file, look in any dark corners, see what’s hidden.

One example of this is that I know how I could prove that Pence is gay. It would bring plenty of trouble, and I don’t give a fig what orientation that jerk might have, but there it is — the truth sort of sits there buzzing and blinking red, making it impossible to ignore.

I generally don’t “read” anyone around me. I regard that as an invasion of privacy, and besides, I don’t give a shit what happens to this planet — once you hit the “respawn” button, it doesn’t matter how you died.

The Russian GRU Psychic Unit.

There’s a more modern unit operating these days, under the general heading of “Unknown Intelligence”, meaning unidentified flying visions. It is referred to as “Division 44” and the head of the agency works under the direction of Игорь Олегович Костюков, who is the director.

The Psychic Unit is headed by my old friend, Dmitri Petrov. Reality check me on this, and you’ll discover that I’m right.

How Do I Get Away in One Piece???

Not only can you set up a “Safe Passage Personal Wealth” package for your clients, you can operate a shop while you’re waiting to decide to bug out with nothing more than what you can carry and, yes, it may come to that, if Trump goes nuts with the election, and you can take that possibility to the horses.

There are other uses for the coin knowledge you’ll be achieving.

Personal Enhancement & Protection.

YOU CAN WEAR “INVISIBLE” HELPERS — they look just like ordinary coins, but they either collect or contact higher entities, totally invisibly to any casual observer.

• OFF-CENTER coins can help focus on getting clear of stuckness, getting out of the box and out of the boundaried regions of time and space.
• RPM — Re-Punched Mintmarks can be used to penetrate spaces, to clear obstacles and to connect with one’s Place of Origin, wherever that may be.
• ANNEAL ERRORS are coins that have a bubbly surface, which we call “Rhino Hide”, great for warding off the evil eye — Malocchio — and resisting unwanted influences, but mostly it’s that “Rhino Hide” Protection that we’re after from this variety of coin.
• TURN OF A CARD — Think of the search game as a sort of poker or blackjack or dice or roulette came, where there’s a winning combination up ahead of you, but it’s up to you to call it — if you miss it, there’s nobody else to save you from losing it.
• BE PREPARED FOR BIG SURPRISES, but ready for constant disappointment as well. Both are equal, if you’ve got the idea working right. The outcome is totally unimportant and focusing on money or personal problems won’t help the search.
• OPEN CHANNEL “D” — Keep the Time-Frame open with your SuperBeacon, Cloud Chamber, Matrix and Matching Ammy. Lots of good time-bending skills can come from this exercise.
• COLLARS AND PARTIAL COLLARS can be used to restore balance & energy.
• BROAD-STRUCK — These are rare enough that I tend to have them slabbed by PCGS whenever I happen across one, but as I said, they’re mighty rare.
• DIE BREAK — Die breaks can be found in along a time-line of breakage, from the very first signs of the break all the way to the fatal catastrophic collapse of the die and its replacement on the production line. Die breaks can be used to create the atmosphere for change from the present condition.
• RAINBOW — These are for Good Luck.
• CHERRY REDS — Deep dark cherry red tones are great for LOVE and ROMANCE.
• HOLEY PENNIES — Pennies with holes in them pop up every now and then, not all that often, but they do show up here and there over time. They are terrific for all sorts of “overcoming” scenarios where you have to overcome odds and the odds are against you.
• DARK ONES — These are great for RESISTANCE to any incoming crud, especially government crud. They can look really good, too — some of them have natural lustre to them with no alteration whatever.
• BUFFED — These are coins that I have personally put on the bench and made into jewelry items, hand-polishing them as I would any other jewelry metal.
• DON’T DO IT FOR THE MONEY — Really, don’t. It IS true that you can make LOT of money from coin search, all the way from searching bank boxes and pocket change to buying auction lots of unsearched rolls, but that mustn’t be your motivation. Keep your goals pure and clean, and look for the excitement of the chase, the thrill of the hunt.
• POWERFUL MATRIX MOUNTS — You can find powerful Matrix Coins in all denominations from copper and silver to gold, and they can be mounted in acrylic capsules and further mounted into a Matrix Board, which can then be housed in a deep black square ready-to-hang frame, blasting out into the space without anyone being the wiser. It’s just a display of some pennies. Just pennies is all.
• COIN TAROT — You can learn to read the coins like tarot cards, where error coins mean certain specific things within the context of the reading. Coins are dealt the same way cards would be set up in a spread.
• “COINO!” — Similar to BINGO, target coins mounted in flips and described on the flips, are mixed up in a hat, then pulled one by one and placed on a square board of 9 regions. Players match the called coins with similar coins only, until one player or several players get all 9 squares filled first.
• PORTAL POWER MATRIX  — Set up a “Slider Portal” as we did in the Gallery, and you can expect to meet some strangers, some of whom will be stranger than others.
• PARK YOUR BODY — Just as you do in a SuperBeacon Session, park your body and use the minimum amount of arm waggle to accomplish the coin search.
• BUILD A COINOLOGY KIOSK — Get out there in your studio or garage and put up a table or two, each with its own coin display case, and fill the cases with coins you’ve found, plus coins you’ve traded for, plus any small antiques you’d like to get rid of.
• DO A “POP-UP” COIN SHOW — Get several coin show display cases and set up your own coin show, with the whole family pitching in as dealers.
• SEARCH N’ SELL — Just what it sounds like — search for coins, and sell them, plus sell your services to help folks learn how to search n’ sell for themselves. Help folks get out of poverty with this simple and easy system.

Now ask yourself the following question:

What kind of coin would a total stranger with no interest in coins and no time, not even a second to spare, be likely to instantly buy?

The answer is very simple and very predictable, if you know your humans of Planet Earth. It’s about them.

Trump isn’t the only megalomaniac in town.

Yes, the coin is ABOUT THEM. The best-case scenario would be a coin with their portrait — you can provide this with an embossed caricature, mounted in a coin frame.

OR —

You just collect some pennies, and you tell them, “I have your date”.

You explain that coins have dates on them to tell when they were minted, and you can tell them about “Significant Personal Dates”, which include birthdays, graduation, confirmation, sweet 16, and of course, “when we met” coins, that carry the date the couple fell in love, or commemorating the date of the final decree of the divorce.

In short, any date is possible, and if a coin doesn’t exist that will serve, you can craft up an embossed metal thingy that will do the job.

Getting folks to resonate with their own past will certainly start to jog them out of their sleep state, if they’ve got a soul to stir.

Get on the job now. It’s cheap, easy and simple and did I mention the cheap part?

When you go to the bank to buy your $25 box of pennies, you’ll be getting the pennies, but consider them as a $25 rebate on a $25 purchase. How much cheaper can it get than that?

Time-Twisters are coins with a twist. Come to my next workshop to find out exactly how YOU can use and apply Coin-Knowledge with Coinology.

I’ve got a few “Easy Passage” pennies in the $1,000 to $240,000 range (I don’t own them, but I can easily get them from a reliable source, with full provenance. I’ve also got a few really amazing beads that are easily recognizable by any ancient bead expert such as Robert Liu, and that could be woven into wearables that would easily pass borders.

The very best of these are beads that run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars — ancient Tibetan “DZI” beads — but I never sell items that are intended for temple use only, which is why my Tibetan altar items are not for sale.

What IS for sale, for instance, is a provably genuine GREEK marble, not a Roman copy. It could sell for upwards of $35,000.00 with a letter of authentication, and that would be no problem to obtain from a world-famous museum.

Why would they do that? They’re hoping you’ll donate it or find someone to buy it and donate it to their museum. That’s how it works.

[MUSIC UP: “It’s all about the tax (not the income), it’s all about the tax (not the income), it’s all about the tax, (not the income), it’s all about the tax!” MUSIC OUT]

See You At The Top!!!

gorby